Denmark’s National Fish Elected, Stirring Controversy

With nearly half the votes, the European plaice (rødspætte) has secured the title of Denmark’s first official national fish, as chosen by more than 36,000 citizens in a nationwide vote. The contest to choose Denmark’s National Fish aimed to spotlight marine life in Danish waters, but has not been without controversy.

European Plaice Becomes Denmark’s National Fish

In a public vote organized by the Danish Ministry of Food, Agriculture, and Fisheries, the European plaice was named Denmark’s national fish, defeating five other candidates. The contest invited Danes to vote for a fish they believed best represented their nation’s marine heritage, culinary traditions, and coastal culture.

The plaice earned this title with 17,166 votes – almost 50% of all those cast. More than 36,000 people participated in this initiative, which was designed in part to raise awareness about the ecological challenges currently facing Danish marine life.

Trailing behind the plaice, the herring took second place, while the sea trout came in third. Cod placed fourth, the European eel fifth, and the mackerel came in last.

Raising Awareness of Marine Issues

According to the ministry, the campaign was launched to highlight life beneath the sea – culturally, historically, and gastronomically – particularly at a time when ocean ecosystems and fish populations are under significant pressure.

Despite its new honorary title, the European plaice is not immune to environmental threats. This year’s Danish flatfish championship saw a winning plaice weighing only 983 grams, less than half the weight of last year’s winner. Anglers say it’s now harder to catch even a one-kilo flatfish than it is to snag a massive tuna, hinting at deeper ecological problems beneath the surface.

Many Fish Populations in Sharp Decline

The contest may celebrate marine biodiversity, but it also casts a spotlight on the environmental threats many of these iconic fish face.

The cod, once a staple of Danish coastal fisheries, is now in critical condition. The International Council for the Exploration of the Sea (ICES) has recommended a zero-catch quota for cod in the Skagerrak and North Sea regions by 2026. Meanwhile, cod fishing in the Baltic Sea has already been banned due to near-total stock collapse, and in the Kattegat, cod can only be caught as unintended bycatch.

The European eel faces an even grimmer future. Since the late 1970s, its population has declined drastically. Today, it is classified as critically endangered by the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN), meaning it faces an extremely high risk of global extinction. ICES has recommended a complete halt to eel fishing.

Stock levels of herring have also dropped an alarming 80% between 1991 and 2021, according to the Danish Society for Nature Conservation. Sea trout populations have suffered as well. In 2023, two angling clubs implemented voluntary protective measures in Denmark’s second-longest river, Storåen, to help the species recover.

As for the mackerel, ICES has proposed significant cuts to future fishing quotas due to the risk of stock collapse.

Backlash Against Denmark’s National Fish Campaign

While the initiative was meant to unite Danes around their marine heritage, it sparked criticism from environmental experts and even campaign collaborators.

A prominent professor of marine ecology from Aarhus University condemned the national fish vote as “the largest greenwashing campaign in Danish history.” His concerns centered on what he saw as a contradiction, promoting fish species while supporting agricultural nitrogen emissions that contribute to the degradation of coastal waters.

Further criticism arose when the ministry’s campaign featured content encouraging people to eat eel, a species listed as critically endangered. The article initially laid out “five ways to eat eel,” including suggestions such as smoked eel with scrambled eggs on rye bread. After backlash from several of the campaign’s partner organizations, the wording was revised to say “five historical ways to eat eel.”

Hope from the Unexpected: Tuna Thriving

Amid the bad news for Denmark’s traditional fish species, one large predator is bucking the trend. Bluefin tuna, once absent from Danish waters for decades, has made a strong comeback. Scientists and fishing experts note that tuna populations in Danish seas are increasing, suggesting that some ecological balances are being restored, at least in part.

The Selection Panel

The fish candidates were selected by a panel representing various parts of Denmark’s food, fishing, and conservation communities, including representatives from the Natural History Museum of Denmark, the Danish Sports Fishing Federation, and the Danish Society for Nature Conservation.

As Denmark embraces the European plaice as its national fish, the contest serves as both a celebration of marine culture and a sobering reminder that many of the species closest to the country’s heritage are now in jeopardy.

Correction: An earlier version of this article incorrectly stated that the World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF) was part of the panel. WWF was not involved. The article has been updated to reflect this.

Maria van der Vliet

Writer

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