Denmark’s fashion industry faces growing concerns over shrinking body diversity as models on the Copenhagen Fashion Week catwalks become increasingly thin, renewing debate over body image and industry responsibility.
Models Are Thinner Than They’ve Been in Years
Copenhagen Fashion Week’s director has acknowledged a worrying trend during Denmark’s most prominent fashion event: runway models are increasingly thin, with fewer midsize and plus-size individuals represented than in recent years. The trend reflects a broader shift in the global fashion industry, sparking renewed concerns about the message being sent to the public—particularly young people.
A recent review by Vogue Business found that nearly 95% of the 8,763 female model appearances during the Spring/Summer 2025 shows in Paris, Milan, London, and New York were categorized as “straight-size”, which typically corresponds to a European size 32–36. Similarly, during the men’s fashion weeks in Paris and Milan in 2024, approximately 98.5% of male models were categorized within the same straight-size range—a noticeable rise from 94.9% the previous year.
Fewer Requests for Curve Models
Danish modeling agencies, including Unique Models and Le Management, confirm the declining demand for curve models—those wearing larger than a size 36. Le Management describes bookings for curve models during fashion week as “nearly non-existent.” This marks a significant shift from recent years, where body diversity had seen progress on global catwalks.
Industry insiders point to broader cultural and commercial forces, including the social media-driven resurgence of extreme thinness. On platforms like TikTok, weight loss trends under hashtags like “SkinnyTok” promote problematic behaviors and glorify underweight bodies. This mirrors the infamous “heroin chic” look of the late 1990s but is now re-emerging in a digital climate that rapidly spreads visual ideals.
Danish Fashion Week’s Ethical Gaps
Although Copenhagen Fashion Week (CFW) does not control model selection—designers and agencies make casting decisions—it requires participating brands to sign the Danish Fashion Ethical Charter. The charter commits brands to promoting diverse and healthy body ideals and recognizes their role in shaping public perceptions of beauty.
Despite this, the commitment has not yet led to formal requirements for body diversity. Organizers argue that implementing such mandates would involve complex ethical and legal concerns, particularly when addressing sensitive topics such as body type and appearance. Instead, industry leaders say progress should occur organically, even if acknowledging that improvements in recent years are now reversing.
Strict Sustainability Standards—but Not for Body Image
While progress on body representation stalls, CFW has been far stricter on environmental issues. In 2020, the event introduced mandatory sustainability standards for fashion brand participation. The requirements include environmental impact evaluations, ethical sourcing, and waste reduction goals. These standards became even stricter by 2023, leading to at least one brand being excluded from participation due to non-compliance.
This contrast underscores criticism: if sustainability can be enforced through measurable standards, why can’t diversity—an equally pressing social concern—receive the same treatment?
International Scrutiny and Pressures Mount
Globally, fashion is under growing scrutiny for its portrayal of thinness. In the UK, advertising authorities recently banned fashion ads from major brands like Marks & Spencer and Zara, citing unhealthy body representation. These crackdowns signal increasing recognition of fashion’s power in shaping societal beauty norms.
Denmark’s fashion leadership, while aware of these pressures, remains cautious. Organizers fear that mandatory diversity checklists could feel artificial or tokenistic, preferring to let change arise from within the industry. Still, observers question whether that is enough, given the growing presence of ultra-thin models and diminishing visibility of body inclusivity.
Backsliding After a Period of Progress
Between 2017 and roughly 2022, there was noticeable advancement in body positivity, with more diverse representation on international runways. Models like Ashley Graham helped redefine beauty norms, inspiring brands to cast women with fuller figures and more realistic proportions. Today, however, that progress appears to be reversing.
As fashion trends recycle, and public platforms such as TikTok amplify unhealthy ideals, Danish fashion finds itself at a crossroads. Whether the industry chooses to speak up, enforce change, or allow trends to dictate what the public sees may shape body image norms in Denmark and beyond for years to come.
