Hareskoven is the closest big forest to Copenhagen, a 1,500-hectare beech wood with royal hunting history, world-class mountain bike trails, and an S-train station at its edge. For expats craving real Danish nature without a car, it is the obvious first move.
I have lived in Denmark long enough to know the cliché. Every newcomer arrives expecting fjords and wilderness. Then they discover most of Danish nature is a 40-minute train ride from the nearest flat white.
Hareskoven is the proof. It sits just outside Copenhagen, yet it feels like a different country. Ancient beech trees, Bronze Age burial mounds, foxes that watch you from the ferns.
This guide is the one I wish I had been handed in my first week. It covers the history, the trails, the practical bits, and the small things only locals know. If you are new to Denmark and looking for real forest, start here.
What and Where Is Hareskoven?
Hareskoven, literally the Hare Forest, is a roughly 1,500-hectare woodland complex northwest of Copenhagen. It sits between the towns of Værløse, Bagsværd, Hareskovby, and Jonstrup. The Danish Nature Agency, Naturstyrelsen, manages it.
The forest is usually split into two halves. Store Hareskov to the south and Lille Hareskov to the north. Together with neighbouring woods like Jonstrup Vang, Nørreskoven, and Ryget Skov, it forms the larger Hareskovene complex.
That makes it one of the biggest continuous forests on Zealand. As stated by Naturstyrelsen, the wider area covers around 2,500 hectares of protected woodland. For Copenhageners, this is the green lung that nobody outside Denmark talks about.
Why Expats Should Care About Hareskoven
Most expats I know default to Frederiksberg Garden or the Lakes for their nature fix. Both are fine. Neither is actually nature.
Hareskoven changes the calculation. You can leave a meeting in central Copenhagen at 17:00 and be under 200-year-old beech trees by 17:35. There is no entrance fee, no booking, no Danish bureaucracy.
The History of Hareskoven: From Royal Hunting Ground to Public Wood
Hareskoven is older than the Danish state in any modern sense. Pollen analysis shows continuous forest cover here for thousands of years. The Bronze Age burial mounds scattered through the wood are the most visible proof.
For centuries, this was a royal hunting ground. Danish kings rode out from Copenhagen to chase red deer, wild boar, and yes, hares. The forest was strictly off-limits to ordinary peasants, a rule enforced by violent foresters.
The Plague House and Other Dark Corners
One of the strangest sites in Hareskoven is Pesthusvej, near a former plague isolation house. During the 1711 Copenhagen plague, victims were sent out here to die away from the city. As reported by local historians, the forest absorbed the dead quietly.
You can still walk past the area today. There is no plaque, no fuss, just a name on a sign. That is very Danish. The country prefers to let history sit in the landscape rather than turn it into a museum.
From Royal Property to People’s Forest
The shift from royal to public forest happened gradually after 1849, when Denmark adopted its first constitution. By the 20th century, Hareskoven was firmly a public asset. Today it is one of the most visited forests in the country.
The 1969 Danish Nature Protection Act cemented public access. Per Danish law, you can walk freely on any path in a state forest from sunrise to sunset. Hareskoven was one of the first places I understood how seriously Danes take that right.
Nature and Wildlife in Hareskoven
The forest is dominated by beech, which is essentially the national tree of Denmark. Oak, ash, birch, and spruce fill in the gaps. Some of the oldest beeches are well over 200 years old.
Underfoot, you find wood anemones in spring, blueberries in summer, and a thick carpet of leaves by October. The biodiversity here is closer to old-growth than most Danish forests, which were heavily replanted after deforestation in the 1700s.
Animals You Might Actually See
Wildlife in Hareskoven is real, not theoretical. I have spotted roe deer at dusk on the trails near Bøndernes Hegn. Foxes are common, especially in winter when food is scarce.
Bird species include great spotted woodpeckers, tawny owls, jays, and buzzards. If you bring binoculars, you will not be bored. The forest sits within Naturpark Mølleåen, which adds wetland habitats and waterbirds to the mix.
The Værebro Å and Mølleåen Rivers
Two small rivers shape the area around Hareskoven. The Værebro Å runs north of the forest, and the Mølleåen system curls around to the east. Both are popular kayaking routes in summer.
According to Naturstyrelsen, the riverbanks support otters and kingfishers, although you will be lucky to see either. I have walked these paths dozens of times and seen one kingfisher. Once.
Things to Do in Hareskoven
This is where Hareskoven really earns its reputation. The forest is not a passive scenery park. It is a functional outdoor playground used hard by Copenhageners every weekend.
Hiking and Walking Trails
There are roughly 36 kilometres of marked trails through Hareskovene. The main routes are colour-coded with painted posts. The yellow route is the easiest, the red the most demanding.
For a first visit, I recommend starting at Hareskov S-train station and walking the 7-kilometre loop into Store Hareskov. It takes about two hours at a normal pace. You will see beech cathedrals, a couple of burial mounds, and probably some serious-looking Danish hikers in technical gear.
Mountain Biking in Hareskoven
Hareskoven has one of the best-known mountain bike tracks in Denmark. The official MTB single-track is around 16 kilometres long and is maintained by volunteers from the Hareskovens MTB Spor group, working with Naturstyrelsen.
The route is technical in places, with roots, drops, and tight turns. On a Saturday morning, expect a steady stream of riders in lycra. It is one of the few activities where Danes will genuinely race you.
Running, Disc Golf, and Horseback Riding
Trail running has exploded in Denmark, and Hareskoven is the favourite forest for Copenhagen runners. The footing is soft, the gradients gentle, and the routes well-signed. Several running clubs meet here weekly.
There is also a permanent disc golf course in nearby Jonstrup Vang. Disc golf access in Danish forests has been controversial, but Hareskovene has long welcomed it. Horseback riding is allowed on designated bridleways.
Winter Activities
When snow falls, which is less reliable every year, the forest fills with cross-country skiers. The flat sections of Store Hareskov are ideal for beginners. Local clubs sometimes set tracks after heavy snowfall.
Even without snow, winter in Hareskoven is worth the trip. The bare beech canopy lets light flood in. You can see structure of the forest that summer hides.
How to Get to Hareskoven Without a Car
This is the killer feature for expats. Hareskoven has two S-train stations directly at its edge. You do not need a car, a bike, or a plan.
By S-train
Take the A or H line to Hareskov station for the northern entrance. The journey from Copenhagen Central takes about 25 minutes. From the platform, you walk straight into the forest in under five minutes.
Alternatively, Skovbrynet station, one stop further on the H line, drops you at the southern edge. Værløse station is also walkable to the western side. Use your standard Rejsekort for the trip.
By Bike
From central Copenhagen, the ride to Hareskoven is about 18 kilometres along well-marked cycle paths. The Farumruten is the most direct. Expect about an hour each way at a relaxed pace.
This is how I usually go. The ride itself becomes part of the day. You see the city give way to suburbs, then suddenly trees.
By Car
If you must drive, there are free parking lots at Pesthusvej, Skovbogårdsvej, and near the Hareskov station entrance. Avoid weekends in autumn, when the lots fill by 10:00. Honestly, the train is faster and cheaper.
Practical Tips From Someone Who Goes Often
A few things I wish someone had told me before my first visit. None of these are dramatic, but they make the difference between a good day and a wet one.
What to Bring
- Waterproof shoes. Even in summer, the paths get muddy. Danish forest soil holds water.
- A thermos. Hot coffee in a forest clearing is a Danish ritual. Learn it.
- Cash for the bakery. Værløse and Bagsværd both have good ones near the stations.
- A printed map or the Naturstyrelsen app. Phone signal can be patchy in the deeper sections.
- Tick check kit. Ticks are common from April to October. Check yourself and your dog afterwards.
Rules You Should Actually Know
Dogs must be leashed in most areas, though Hareskoven has a designated dog forest (hundeskov) where they can run free. Wild camping is forbidden, but you can book a free shelter through the Naturstyrelsen booking system.
You can pick mushrooms and berries for personal use. Picking flowers is technically allowed in small quantities. Lighting fires outside designated pits will get you a fine and a stern Danish lecture.
The Best Time of Year
I rank the seasons in Hareskoven like this. Autumn first, for the colour and the smell. Spring second, for the anemones and birdsong. Summer third, because the canopy is heavy and the light filtered.
Winter is underrated. Few people, bare trees, sometimes snow. As noted by regular visitors on Danish hiking forums, January mornings here are some of the most peaceful experiences in the Copenhagen area.
Hareskoven Versus Other Copenhagen-Area Forests
Expats often ask me which forest is best near Copenhagen. The honest answer depends on what you want. Here is the short version.
- Hareskoven: Closest big forest, best train access, strong MTB scene.
- Gribskov: Bigger and wilder, but further north and harder to reach.
- Dyrehaven: Famous for free-roaming deer, but more park than forest.
- Kalvebod Fælled: Open meadow and wetland, not forest.
- Tisvilde Hegn: Stunning coastal forest, but a real day trip.
For weekly visits without planning, Hareskoven wins. For a special weekend, take the train further north to Gribskov or Tisvilde. If you want more forest options, our guide to nature in Denmark covers the rest of the country.
The Cultural Context: Why Danes Worship Their Forests
Forest culture in Denmark runs deep. The country was almost completely deforested by 1800, with woodland coverage down to around 4 percent. A national reforestation programme rebuilt the forests over the next two centuries.
Today, forest cover is back to about 15 percent and rising. The government has committed to converting more farmland into forest as part of its climate plan. Hareskoven sits at the heart of this story.
The Right to Roam, Danish Style
Danes call their public access right almenhedens adgang. It is less generous than the Swedish allemansrätten, but in state forests like Hareskoven it is broad. You can walk anywhere, sit anywhere, swim in any lake.
For expats from countries with private land everywhere, this takes adjustment. Walk into the forest. Sit on a log. Nobody will ask what you are doing. That is the point.
Forest Bathing, Danish-Style
Recent Danish research from the University of Copenhagen has shown that time in forests reduces stress markers and improves cardiovascular health more than equivalent indoor exercise. Danish doctors increasingly prescribe forest time, informally. Hareskoven is on their unofficial list.
I have noticed this myself. A Sunday morning in Hareskoven resets the week in a way that no spinning class ever has. The Danes were quietly right about this one.
Frequently Asked Questions About Hareskoven
Is there an entrance fee to Hareskoven?
No. Hareskoven is a state forest managed by Naturstyrelsen and is free to enter year-round. There are no gates, no tickets, no opening hours during daylight. Parking is also free at the official lots.
How do I get to Hareskoven from Copenhagen?
The easiest way is by S-train. Take line A or H to Hareskov station, which takes about 25 minutes from Copenhagen Central. Skovbrynet and Værløse stations also border the forest. By bike, the ride is roughly 18 kilometres on dedicated cycle paths.
Can I bring my dog to Hareskoven?
Yes, dogs are welcome but must be leashed in most sections. Hareskoven includes a designated dog forest (hundeskov) where dogs can run off-leash. Always check the signs at each entrance, as the boundaries are clearly marked.
What wildlife lives in Hareskoven?
Roe deer, foxes, hares, squirrels, and badgers are all present. Bird species include woodpeckers, tawny owls, buzzards, jays, and various songbirds. Dawn and dusk are the best times for wildlife sightings, particularly in spring and early autumn.
Are there mountain bike trails in Hareskoven?
Yes. Hareskoven has a 16-kilometre marked single-track MTB route maintained by local volunteers and Naturstyrelsen. It is rated intermediate, with technical sections, roots, and tight turns. It is one of the most popular MTB tracks on Zealand.
Can I camp overnight in Hareskoven?
Wild camping is not permitted. However, Naturstyrelsen operates free bookable shelters within the wider Hareskovene area. You can reserve a spot via the Naturstyrelsen website. Open fires are only allowed in designated fire pits.
What is the best time of year to visit Hareskoven?
Autumn offers the most dramatic colours, usually peaking in mid to late October. Spring brings wood anemones and birdsong from April. Winter delivers solitude and bare-tree views. Summer is leafy and busy but excellent for picnics and long evenings.
Is Hareskoven suitable for families with small children?
Absolutely. The main paths are wide, flat, and pushchair-friendly. There are playgrounds near several entrances and picnic areas with tables. The forest is also a popular spot for Danish forest kindergartens, which says something about its child-friendliness.
Are there toilets or cafés inside Hareskoven?
There are basic toilets at some parking areas but no cafés inside the forest itself. Værløse, Bagsværd, and Hareskovby all have bakeries, supermarkets, and cafés within walking distance of the train stations. Pack a thermos for the real Danish experience.
Is Hareskoven safe to visit alone?
Yes. Hareskoven is considered very safe, even at dawn or dusk. The biggest practical risks are ticks in summer and getting briefly lost off the marked trails. Phone signal is generally reliable. Pack a paper map or download the Naturstyrelsen app to be safe.
Final Thoughts on Hareskoven
If you are new to Denmark and still figuring out where the real nature is, Hareskoven is the answer. It is close, free, beautiful, and woven into how Copenhageners actually live. You do not need a plan, a car, or a Danish friend to enjoy it.
Go once, and you will start going monthly. That is how it worked for me. After a decade in Denmark, Hareskoven is still the forest I default to when I need to remember why I stayed.
