A new investigation by World Animal Protection and Collective Fashion Justice alleges that ostrich feathers used in fashion come from birds plucked alive, prompting comparisons with fur.
DR reported on September 24 that ostrich feathers remain widespread in fashion, from luxury houses to ultra fast fashion. In its report, the broadcaster points to a new study from the two animal welfare organizations. The groups claim that ostrich feathers have become the new fur.
According to AFP, the investigation was published on September 21, 2026. Investigators documented ostriches on South African farms being restrained and cut without pain relief. AFP reports that some feathers were cut above the bloodline and later pulled out with pliers.
The organizations said the process could be repeated roughly every six months. They also said the findings challenge the belief that fashion feathers are simply gathered after birds naturally molt. NL Times reports that investigators visited three commercial ostrich farms in South Africa.
Brands named in the report
As reported by AFP, the investigation links farms and processing facilities in the supply chain to luxury labels including YSL, Louis Vuitton, Dior and Chanel, as well as Shein. World Animal Protection argued that rejecting fur while using ostrich feathers is the same welfare problem with a different animal. NL Times states that the organizations want to raise awareness among consumers and the industry.
DR notes that feathers appear across the international market, from Gucci and Valentino to Boohoo and Shein. Valentino’s spring collection was presented in Rome in March 2026 with feathers on the catwalk. DR contacted Valentino, Gucci, Boohoo and Shein, but none had responded.
Fashion expert Chris Pedersen, host of DR’s podcast Popsmart, told the broadcaster that interest groups spent three decades pushing for a phase out of fur. He said that campaign eventually went mainstream, but feathers are nowhere near the same point. As long as fashion moves at its current speed, he said, feathers will stay in circulation.
Pedersen pointed to the availability of a small feather party top for 150 kroner as a striking detail. He also cited the actor Zendaya, who wore a feather dress to the premiere of the film The Odyssey in New York. Had the dress been made of fur, he said, there would have been demonstrations against her.
Else Skjold, a lecturer in design and sustainability at the Royal Danish Academy, offered a different framing to DR. She said that when one material is phased out, fashion houses simply turn to another, so ostrich feathers are not necessarily the core issue. According to Skjold, the basic problem is the sheer volume of materials used in clothing production.
DR notes that parts of the industry have moved to drop some animal materials. Copenhagen Fashion Week banned newly produced fur from its catwalks in 2023. Feathers were not covered by that ban.
