A leading Danish food critic warns that influencer culture is turning restaurant dining into spectacle rather than experience. He believes the focus on social media content is eroding genuine appreciation for food.
Influencers Taking Over Copenhagen’s Dining Scene
In Copenhagen, a city known for its world-class culinary scene, many restaurant owners have begun voicing frustration. According to food critic and editor Søren Jacobsen Damm, more influencers are showing up at trendy spots expecting free meals or perfect backdrops for photos rather than coming to savor the food.
This growing culture, he says, feels more like a “disturbing circus” than a dinner service. In his experience, some influencers treat dining out purely as a chance to shoot videos, completely missing the point of what it means to enjoy a meal together. The overuse of cameras and constant posing disrupts other guests who came simply to eat.
Because of that, both chefs and diners at places like Copenhagen restaurants are noticing a change in atmosphere. Instead of quiet conversation and good food, tables often become small film sets.
The Rise of “Instagram Dining”
The critic has seen unusual behavior not just in Denmark but abroad. In Paris, Rome, and Copenhagen, some couples now spend entire meals recording themselves instead of talking. Cameras sit perched on mini tripods beside their plates while waiters maneuver around their setups.
At one busy café in Copenhagen, Damm once saw a solo tourist occupying a large six-person table only to film her breakfast for nearly an hour. Outside, families waited in the cold for empty seats. The incident, he said, exemplified how basic courtesy often gets lost when meals turn into content sessions instead of shared experiences.
Restaurants themselves also contribute to the trend. Many have started designing dishes that look good on Instagram rather than focusing on taste. Plates come stacked with colorful garnishes or unusual shapes meant to capture attention online. The critic calls this a “dangerous development,” one that rewards visual appeal over culinary skill.
When Aesthetic Beats Flavor
More restaurateurs now play into the influencer economy, hoping that viral photos bring customers. But as Damm points out, it rarely benefits anyone long-term. “The food gets made for the camera, not for the palate,” he argues. Once visuals become the main goal, flavor risks fading from importance.
He recalled hearing from one Copenhagen restaurant where a group of young women ordered just a single cocktail for the entire table. They passed it around for selfies. The table, which could have generated thousands of kroner in revenue, turned into a stage prop instead of part of the dining service.
The critic believes this cycle of influencers seeking free exposure and restaurants catering to them undermines real gastronomy. It replaces authenticity with performance. Even though some social media diners might see themselves as modern reviewers, Damm contends their work lacks credibility since many receive complimentary meals or invitations. Without paying as ordinary customers do, they cannot give fair or accurate assessments.
A Lost Sense of Dining
From what he has observed, old-fashioned restaurant culture in Denmark valued intimacy and enjoyment. Dining was about connection, flavor, and hospitality. That atmosphere is increasingly threatened by people staring into phones or adjusting ring lights.
As a result, more chefs and restaurant owners in places such as Denmark’s best restaurants express irritation. The noise and distraction pull attention away from the craft that chefs spend years perfecting.
Ultimately, Damm worries that dining risks losing its social meaning. “Sharing meals used to bring people closer,” he says. “Now some people just share content.” For him, that shift is not progress but a cultural setback.
Sources and References
The Danish Dream: Where to Eat in Copenhagen
The Danish Dream: Best Restaurants in Denmark for Foreigners
TV2: Madanmelder i hård kritik af influencere på restauranter
